Paradise found in Puerto Piramides
From mid-June to December something magical takes place in the Golfo Nuevo sea off the Valdes Peninsula. Southern Right whales come here to breed, giving birth to new calves and supporting young born in the previous year to become more independent. Southern Right whales are distinctive as they don’t have a dorsal fin and their heads are covered in skin growths, known as callosities.
If you’re lucky you may also spot Orcas. We visited this slice of paradise for two nights, enjoying long days on the beach, brisk swims in the sea and, of course, a boat trip to spot the whales.
The flight from Buenos Aires to El Tehuelche Airport takes around 2 hours. We hired a car (with 2 kids car seats) from the airport. The drive from the airport to Puerto Piramides takes just over 1 hour. Many times in Argentina we find ourselves on drives which feel like we could be on another planet, and this is no exception. The Valdes Peninsula is 40 metres below sea level, and for most of the journey it seems impossible that the sea is just over the horizon. And yet as you turn off the road into the town you are treated to a sweeping view of the bay and the glistening sea.
We stayed right on the beach in Oceano Patagonia Hotel a perfect two bedroom space with views out to the sea. We spent hours with our binoculars transfixed on the sea looking for whales!
There are a number of places to eat in the town but being aware of opening times and planning around that is key. It seems the siesta is fairly sacred here so in the middle of the day it’s quiet.
You can book boat trips through Bottazzi. The weather might prevent boats going out so we recommend planning on two days here just incase you need to wait out the weather. During our trip we visited Mirador de Ballenas, from here we got a great view of the elephant seal colony and could see whales breeching the water in the distance. This was great with the children as there are easy to navigate walkways to take you to the view points.
Following our time in Puerto Piramides we spent a day in Trelew before a night in Puerto Madryn. Although you can organise whale watching from Puerto Madryn we loved the quiet town of Puerto Piramides for a short escape. We returned with sandy toes and expanded imaginations - an incredible sight for little minds to see such majestic creatures closeby.
Did you know? The callosities on the heads of Southern Right whales are as unique as a human's fingerprint. This is how individual whales can be identified.
Top tips for visiting with a little one:
Essential things: We arrived in Puerto Piramides having forgotten our nappies! Luckily a small convenience store was open but only had a few packs. Try to take what you need with you as you can’t guarantee it will be in stock at the time you visit.
Boat trip: We chose a boat trip which lasted just over an hour and this was a good time length for our 4 year old and 1 year old. We took our baby carrier for our youngest so we could keep him close and give him a good view!
Weather: Being on the coast and getting out onto the sea can be blustery so take layers and warm coats. I took waterproof overalls for both our children as I knew if they got cold they would not enjoy the experience as much.
Getting around: A car is the best form of transport, make sure you are well prepared in the event of a puncture as some of the roads, particularly if you want to head to see the penguins, are rough and ready. We ensure to have water and snacks incase we end up stranded. It’s normal to travel a few hours without passing a shop or petrol station so keep your petrol tank topped up!
Best time to visit: Definitely visit when the whales are in town between June to December. If this doesn’t fit with your plans the seals are there all year round.
Nearby: In Punta Cantor, a 1.5 hour drive from Puerto Piramides you’ll find a colony of Magellanic penguins from late September to mid April. Closeby a trip to Mirador de Ballenas is worth it for the views.
